Monday 5 December 2011

Money, Money Gods, and Lucky Money / 財神, 發財金, 台灣社寮紫南宮 / 财神, 台湾




This video was made to accompany a presentation at the European Association of Taiwan Studies International Conference in 2011. It features the 'Money God' temple Zi Nan Gong 紫南宮.

The temple is very old. Zhi Nan Gong was first built in the year 1697 the original temple housing Tu Di Gong, adding his wife, Tu Di Po in 1730.

This was the first temple in Taiwan to give fortune money. At that time, the village comprised of several local landlords who had ambitions to make money in Taipei, and a small agricultural community. Although the exact date has been forgotten, the vice manager of the temple Mr Chen 陳俊郎 recollects the first occasion on which fortune money was given in the late 1930s.

The landlords had been to Taipei, but found no success in business, and returned to the village to ask for the assistance of the temple deities. The temple committee of 12 met, and a decision was reached that lucky money could be given, so long as the temple deities agreed. The agreement was attained through the use of bua bue, and the landlords returned to Taipei where their businesses were successful. The very first person to be given money was a Mr. Zhang 張, followed by the other landlords, and the temple stipulated that the money had to be returned within one year.

Since the 1950s, the process has become ritualized. Generally in Taiwan, it is common for temple visits to rise incrementally with the size, state and condition of the roads and transport availability. When the temple first lent money to local villagers, there was only a dirt road which had been constructed by the Japanese. By the 1960s there was a tarmac road, and now access to the village is on a four lane road with parking facilities for several hundred cars and coaches.

Tuesday 29 November 2011

Divination and Decision Making in Taiwan 台灣, 龍山寺, 土地公, 擲珓




Filmed at Long Shan Temple and at National Taiwan University in Taipei, this video discusses the use of divination blocks known as 'bue' to ask deities 'yes' / 'no' questions to aid decision making. Originally filmed in 2007 as a part of an MA project at NCCU, I have recently edited it, added music, commentary and subtitles and hopefully it will now be more interesting to watch.

Monday 28 November 2011

Taoist Sword Ritual in Taiwan 台灣道教劍科儀 , 台湾道教剑科仪




Taoist Sword Ritual in Taiwan performed as a part of a 4 day Jiao (醮) for a temple in Zhuwei near Dan Shui in New Taipei City. The purpose of the Jiao is to rid the locality of malevolent spirits and to bring good fortune to the temple, the people and to the country. The name of the ritual is 敕水禁壇, and the excellent Taoist priest performing it is 吳日權. The temple is called (慈玄宮) Ci Xuan Gong, and the Taoist priest and ritual master in charge of the ritual is Master Lee (李游坤).

Temple Parade, Taipei, 遶境 舞龍 電音三太子 大仙尪仔 八將團




A religious parade (遶境) held by Zhen An Temple in San Chong, Taipei 三重鎮安宮on 26/11/2011. The main deity is Zhong Tan Yuan Shai (中壇元帥), and you can see him paraded in the sedan chair. There were no spirit mediums at this parade, parades in Taiwan being more temple centred and less spirit medium centred than those in Singapore, though of course there are also temple centred parades in Singapore and spirit medium centred parades in Taiwan too. This parade was particularly unusual by being led by approximately 30 large motorcycles, something I have not seen before.

Wednesday 23 November 2011

August 5th: 'pudu' ritual at Taipei 府城隍廟




An awesome 7th month 'pudu' ritual led by Taoist Master Li (李游坤) at Taipei Fu Cheng Huang Miao (台北府城隍廟). It is the best organized and most professionally performed Taoist ritual I have seen in Taiwan. Many thanks to all the participants for their hospitality.

Fabian's YouTube

Rating:★★★
Category:Other
http://www.youtube.com/user/fabian215963

Thursday 10 November 2011

Spirit medium in trance: Extreme body piercing 游境 二爷伯降乩 极限穿针 乩童




June 5th, Singapore, a religious street parade (yew keng) where deities incarnate tranced through spirit mediums pay respects to deities in temples and rid the areas they visit of malevolent spirits. This video features a medium trancing a deity called Di Ya Pek (Hokkien) / Da Er Ye Bo (Mandarin), an Underworld enforcer deity being pierced with swords. In Taiwan this deity is known as General Fan. The reason for the parade was to celebrate the one year anniversary of the temple group (tua). There are different explanations of why mediums in trance pierce or strike themselves with various weapons.

Elliott (1955) states that the underlying assumption behind spirit medium practices is that “a spiritual being of vast and undefined powers possesses the body of a human medium and enables him to inflict injury upon himself without feeling pain, and to speak with divine wisdom, giving advice to worshippers and curing their illness”. In essence, the medium is considered to be a deity incarnate, and through the medium, devotees can communicate directly with the deity. Mediums use a selection of weapons including a range of articles for self-mortification, whips and swords for exorcism, and talismans and sacred choreographies, all of which are empowered to do battle with forces of evil: “Tang-kis pierce their bodies with swords and skewers in order to take on the spirit power imbued in these weapons … driven into the very flesh of the tang-ki, the weapons super-charge the tang-ki with spirit power” (Chan 2009).

The event was remarkably festive, and I was lucky enough to be invited into the truck carrying these two mediums (the gentleman pierced with swords, and the gentleman pierced with a light tube) on their pilgrimage to various temples. They are both extremely gentle and generous individuals. It was a great day out!

Wednesday 28 September 2011

Ah Heng, a gifted spirit medium in Singapore, trancing the Underworld enforcer Tua Ya Pek 大爷伯




Ah Heng, a gifted spirit medium in Singapore, trancing the Underworld enforcer Tua Ya Pek 大爷伯 at Zheng Long Gong Xuan Jiang Dian 正龙宫玄江殿. This was a part of the Chinese New Year celebration and involved tossing the Yu Sheng, i.e., flinging noodles mixed with raw fish into the air for good luck. Tua Ya Pek also made some accurate predictions for the coming year.

"Drawing inspiration from the rojak sold by hawkers and the salad served in Western restaurants, the Fab Four turned the traditional Cantonese dish into what is today - a must-have during Chinese New Year: Yu sheng, or raw fish salad.

Yu sheng is wildly popular because its Cantonese pronunciation sounds like "rising abundance" or prosperity. The tradition of "lo hei", or tossing the salad high into the air while shouting auspicious greetings, also symbolises good luck". (TODAY online News Alert for January 29, 2011)

Monday 26 September 2011

Ling-ji (靈乩) Medicine Festival at Song Shan Yao Chi Gong 松山瑤池宮, Taiwan




Song Shan Yao Chi Gong 松山瑤池宮 is one of the most exquisitely individualistic temples that it has been my good fortune to encounter in Taiwan. They are a ling-ji (靈乩) temple in the foothills of the Four Animal Mountains that skirt the South East of Taipei City and their main deity is Yao Chi Jin Mu (瑤池金母) also known as Wang Mu Niang Niang (王母娘娘). At present they are coming to the end of their annual 24 day Medicine Offering Festival, and I will first describe the temple and the practice, and then move onto the Medicine Festival.

Ling-ji (靈乩) is a spiritual practice that has become popularized in Taiwan since the mid 1950’s. The actual practice is known as ling-dong (靈動). Now approximately 1 in 6 temples has a ling-ji group practicing from it, and with Taiwan having a total of approximately 25,000+ temples (2006 Ministry of Interior estimate) there are likely to be around 4200 ling-ji temples. Song Shan Yao Chi Gong, an exquisite temple built into the mountainside overlooking Taipei is quite large and has maybe 70 practitioners, but to make a low guestimate by guessing the average number of practitioners at each temple numbering about 20, there are perhaps 84,000 active practitioners in Taiwan. This is a very moderate guestimate. There is one active group in Singapore to date, and this is led by a Taiwanese teacher, Mr. Zhu (朱老師), and like the ‘Techno San Tai Zi’ may become another of Taiwan’s religious exports in Southeast Asia.

There is however no unified philosophy or definition of what ‘ling’ in terms of ling-ji practice is, how ‘ling’ works or the ultimate goal of ling-ji practice, and no commonly accepted explanation of the practice. Neither is there a unified form of practice in ling-ji groups, with each individual ‘expressing their ling’ in unique ways. There are however some commonalities.

Most practitioners belch loudly to expel negative chi. This is followed by spontaneous movements resembling dance, tai chi or martial movements. More advanced practitioners speak ‘God Language’ and speak both to deities and to the ‘ling’ of other practitioners, practice hands on healing and at a higher level are able to see spirits and become aware of their own past incarnations.



On September 5th, Song Shan Yao Chi Gong began its epic annual ‘Medicine Festival’. I use the word epic unreservedly as in every sense it is the largest and longest medicine ritual I have witnessed. The preparation took approximately 6 weeks, and the festival lasts for 24 days. Every day 36 medicines are cooked in traditional medicine pots over charcoal stoves, each medicine made from traditional Chinese herbal recipes and in a 24 hour period, the concentrate is poured into a small bowl next to the cooker and the pot refilled. There are 3 sets of medicine simultaneously cooking making a total of 108 medicines a day being prepared.

The medicine is for the use of spirits and is termed ‘ling – medicine’ to cure the ling of those already passed away. The physical medicines are transformed into ‘ling’ medicines in several ways including continual ‘ling-ji’ practice over the medicines by practitioners and by the help of deities. There is no shortage of either as 5 other temples have taken up residence in a temporary colourful tentage complete with their own deities, priests, teachers and practitioners for the entire duration of the festival. The other temples include on Aboriginal Temple practicing its own newly invented traditions, a Pure Land Buddhist temple and 3 Taoist temples with the common thread being that they are all avid ling-ji practitioners. The main focus of the medicine this year is to heal the ‘ling’ of China’s Emperors, the logic being that as they were responsible for the most suffering; their spirits are in the greatest need of healing. The medicine clearly works on many different levels.

The carnivalesque atmosphere created by all these fabulous individuals is impossible to capture in words, even with the help of photographs, so I have made a short video of some of last night’s activities. Every night of course there are different activities, and last night was particularly festive. Other evenings are more sombre and spiritual in tone.

Every detail of this festival makes it stand out from the vegetarian offerings made of bread in the shape of squid, crabs, frogs to larger mammals, to the care taken to prepare exact amounts of ingredients for each medicine, to the chanting and altars and individual ling-ji practice is exceptional.

There are multiple focus points for the activities apart from the cooking medicines and temple itself. There is the pond which has been decorated with flowers and crystals and had a Medicine Buddha installed, individual altars built on the ground from natural products and renewed on a daily basis to direct the spirits to the medicine rituals, the main external altar belonging to Song Shan Yao Chi Gong, Giant cardboard lotus flowers made in the temple and weighting maybe 60kg each and the individual daily activities of visiting temples from Buddhist chanting to Aboriginal dances.

Last night was the evening for the aborigine dance. The Buddhist chanting which began at noon ended at 8:30 with a slow walk in a long train around every section of the temples and medicine pots to bless the medicines, and the aborigines had dressed in their costumes for the dance which was of course dedicated to the spirits and acted as a further invitation to spirits to attend the festival and to enhance the medicines and ritual objects further. I had taken a South African friend along to watch the activities and we were both brought into the dance. We had bells on our wrists and danced joyfully with the group for maybe 30 minutes. The dance then moved around the medicines as everyone ecstatically shook their hands and bells over the medicines and altars to multiply their energy and to attract the attention of souls in need of healing.

The Festival will end next Tuesday with a smashing of the medicine pots and the sending off of the attending (paper) deities by Taoist priests …

Saturday 18 June 2011

Pasir Ris Yew Keng and Pu Du Rituals




Pasir Ris Yew Keng (May 17th), Grand Dinner (May 18th), and Pu Du (普度) Rituals for Ancestors, Babies & Wandering Spirits (May 19th)

Pasir Ris Yew Keng (May 17th)

I woke up early and headed to the tentage at Pasis Ris Drive 6 Blk 426 open field where I was warmly welcomed by the spirit medium and head of the tua, Alvin. I was also greeted by Vernon, a gentleman who had helped several of us find space on a bus 7 months earlier at the nine Emperor God Festival sending off by Long Nan Dian. Singapore is a small place, and during the yew keng (Note: for definition of yew keng, see: http://4fabian.multiply.com/photos/album/24/24 ), I also met the photographers Stephen David and members from the outstanding Dysfunctional team, all of whom have excellent photo sites on multiply.com.

This was the Tua’s second yew keng, the first being in 2003 when the tua was only five years old. The first yew keng was very small-scale with two mediums and one pair of lion dancers, and visited only 4 temples. At this time the temple was not established and they were striving hard to survive. So their Tua Ya Pek told them to go on their first yew keng to ask for blessings from the Jade Emperor, from the chief of the Underworld Dong Yue Da Di (for information on Dong Yue Da di see: http://s15.zetaboards.com/ZhangGongFaZhuGong/topic/478572/1/), and also from the god of the locality at Loyang Tua Pek Gong. This year’s event was therefore to give thanks and to repay back the blessings that the deities had bestowed on them eight years before.

Participating in the yew keng were a troupe of Shaolin monks who performed dragon dances as well giving a kung fu performance at Loyang Tua Pek Gong, two lions and a drum and symbol troupe accompanied by two giant puppets of Tua Ya Pek and Di Ya Pek. However, the two puppets were different from their Taiwanese counterparts in as much as they danced flippantly in a similar fashion to the dancing San Tai Zi, while in Taiwan, Generals Fan and Xie are more solemn and dignified, and majestically stroll through fire-cracker smoke acknowledging each other, but not the audience. The drum troupe itself is of a type more often seen in funeral wakes, but now more temples are using them. One section of their drumming is intended to invoke the eight immortals, the Ba Xian, to come and bless the space where the rituals are held. There were also drummers from the temple who accompanied the palanquin bearing Ji Gong. Apart from that, there was a single bus load of followers, and the spirit medium. The only piercing was of two helpers who shared the Generals of the Five Directions, one carrying three, and the other with the remaining two. The friendliness of the medium and his devotees, and the devotion of the followers themselves more than compensated for the lack of sensationalism. Alvin suggested that this was a very humble yew keng in an apologetic fashion, but I answered him that it was special as it was free from religious tourists, and only included his devotees, friends and admirers which made it all the more sincere.

The first location that we visited was the Jade Emperor temple (photos 'Outside Jade Emperor Temple' to 'Leaving Jade emperor Temple') in Havelock Road which is famous for two things; being very old, and for being one of the two Jade Emperor temples that mediums go to for endorsement. The spirit medium himself remained outside of the temple sheltered under an umbrella from the heat of the sun while his helpers took in his credentials to be stamped. I believe this is because he was trancing an Underworld deity, and Underworld deities do not go into the Jade Emperor's temple. The objects stamped included a certificate, a talisman and a selection of flags, each representing a deity. Also, small ritual objects including Tua Ya Pek’s deity chops were circled through the incense smoke in the main censer.

The second location was Bukit Purmei - Tang Gah Beo, a temple which houses Dong Yue Da Di, Chief of the Underworld, and is considered the headquarters for Underworld deities in Singapore. So after seeking blessings from the Jade Emperor in Heaven, the tua sought blessings from the Underworld chief. All of the flags and stamps went through the same ritual process as in the Jade emperor temple. In both temples, bua bue were thrown to ascertain that the deities approved.

The yew keng then visited the City God temple at Toa Payoh – Suan Lin Chen Huang Miao, the reason for visiting this temple is that both their Tua Ya Pek and this City God came from the same province in China, Anxi Province. This temple was also on the previous yew keng route. The fourth stop on the route was Paya Lebar – Jiu Cai Ba Cheng Huang Miao. However, both the Tua Ya Pek and City God from Jiu Cai Ba Cheng Huang Miao are from a different province, and this temple had been chosen by the tua as an extra temple to the procession route.

The penultimate stop was at a supporters private shrine, and it was contextually interesting as the traditional shrine was set up very close to a Subways sandwiches outlet which provided a stark contrast between the traditional Chinese culture and American consumerist society.

The final stop was at Loyang Tua Pek Gong. In common with three of the four temples previously visited, Loyang Tua Pek Gong was included in their original yew keng, and was visited to repay back the blessings that the deity had bestowed upon their tua eight years before. The original purpose in choosing this temple is that in every district there is an Earth God (a Tudi Gong or a Tua Pek Gong) who is the official in charge of an entire area, and being located in Pasir Ris, their tua falls under the jurisdiction of this particular Tua Pek Gong, and therefore his blessings were sought and received. The visit here was therefore to offer thanks and to pay respects to the deity, and as this was the location chosen for the Shaolin kung fu performance, I assume also to provide entertainment for him.

An incredibly sincere, well-educated and knowledgeable Taoist priest accompanied the yew keng into each temple to perform rituals and to chant. The purpose of the chanting is that Tua Ya Pek engages the Taoist priest as a spokesman to inform the resident deities of the temple “that his temple came eight years ago to ask for blessings to let his (Tua Ya Pek’s) temple stabilise and grow, and now eight years later, you can see our growth, you can see the troops that we can finally pay to come and show our respect (to you the resident deity here) and to give gratitude back to you”.

The yew keng finished back at Pasis Ris Drive 6 Blk 426 around 10 PM. The last few hundred meters to the tentage were walked, and it was both an honour and a pleasure to be allowed to walk with them. Upon return, the gentleman who had been skewered had their skewers removed, Alvin came out of trance, and everyone enjoyed some rice porridge. I spoke to Alvin right after he came out of trance and though tired, his mood was energetic and uplifting. As a very pleasing end to the evening, they requested that I take a group photograph which I did. The atmosphere was more like a family celebration by this time as was reflected by the jubilation at the end of an exhausting day. I offered to pay for a place at the grand dinner on the following day, but Alvin’s sister Angela who was in charge of organization refused, instead offering me a free place which was incredibly kind of her. In return, I promised to have some photos ready for them by the next day. There is joy in both giving and receiving.


The Grand dinner May 18th

The day after the Pasir Ris yew keng, they held a very friendly grand dinner which I was lucky enough to attend. The food of course was fantastic, but conversation largely drowned out by the auction, meaning that if one wasn't bidding (i.e., me), the food could be enjoyed to the full. The best dish from my perspective was the fish in soy sauce with green onion which I washed down with an ice cold shandy. A scrummy meal all round – given the opportunity, I could have carried on eating plates of the smoked duck, fried prawns and bowls of chicken soup all night ...

Of key interest was the auctioning of the fa cai gu – urn of prosperity. As a material object, it is an ordinary urn, but as a ritual object, it takes on a powerful significance. The urn has been sanctified by the temple’s Tua Ya Pek, and has been used to pray to the temple’s Tua Ya Pek by devotees, so it is considered a miniature of the big urn in the original temple. It contains two flags representing the flags that Tua Ya Pek carries (these are not new but recycled every year), feathers and three incense sticks. It is made especially for the auction using the incense ashes from the temple, and is a replica of the original in the temple. If you win the bid, it represents that you are inviting this particular Tua Ya Pek to your house as a guest for one year, and you are therefore praying directly to him at home. It also represents prosperity, as when you invite the deity back to your house, the deity will bring you good luck financially, and prosperity in all its other guises. In the past the fa cai gu from this tua has sold between for Singapore $15 and 19,000 which is considered low for Singapore. Some famous temples have auctioned a fa cai gu for several hundreds of thousands, even though the fa cai gu has to be returned to the temple at the end of one year. It can only be kept by a family or business if they win the auction three years consecutively.


Thursday May 19th – Pu Du Ritual

On the 19th the tua held a pu du ritual for ancestors, miscarried babies and aborted foetuses, and for wandering spirits. The cooperation between the Taoist priest and spirit medium was superb, and they had consulted prior to the event to make sure that every detail was prepared and enacted correctly.

I was impressed with the care that had been taken in providing for every element of the hungry spirit world. As can be seen in photos, starting from the entrance to the tentage closest to the road, there were offerings to the wandering spirits, then to ancestors, then to spirits of the disabled and then to miscarried or aborted babies and children. In the photo 'Offerings for Wandering Spirits and Ancestors', the tables in the foreground are to the wandering spirits, and the tables behind for ancestors. The food for them was sumptuous (or in Fabian language "scrummy")

The explanation offered by the tua for offerings to the ancestors is that: "It is to fulfil one’s gratitude towards their ancestors by transferring their merits to the deceased so that their suffering in the Netherworld (地狱) can be reduced and head for reincarnation faster. By treating ancestors to a dinner banquet, it is one’s way of feeding them after death. 大爷伯 frequently teaches our devotees to be grateful to our parents as they painstakingly brought us up by providing us in all aspects hence, we must do the same when they grow old and thereafter as a remembrance. Providing food is a basic need thus, this is a great example of an act of filial piety" (from: http://pasiris.multiply.com/journal/item/60).

I think it is excellent that this tua takes the time to explain to it's followers the reasons, purpose and morality behind their actions and rituals. I have heard from people as diverse as taxi drivers to religious specialists that Taoism is losing ground to Christianity and Buddhism because people do not really understand the religion and no-one explains it. Older people often remark that when they were growing up, one didn't ask "why do we do this?" or "what does this mean?" and so on, and if they did, a common response may be "because that is the way it has always been done". I therefore particularly admire this tua as they encourage questions and offer answers to their followers. As an academic, I can only see the spreading of knowledge as a positive thing, and a deeper understanding of the rituals and morality of Taoism as positive for Taoism as a whole, especially so as we live in what has become to be known as the "information age". Anyway …

Similarly, an explanation is provided to followers why offerings are given to wandering spirits: "Frequently, many wandering spirits are the cause of unjustified deaths (冤死). When their families do not perform proper 普渡 rites, they would continue to wander in the Mortal World (人间) endlessly thus going without clothes, food and shelter for the longest time. Again, if a rite is done for them, their suffering will be reduced. The temple has handled many spiritual cases that arose from direct or indirect association with wandering spirits. Conducting 普渡 ritual is a way of appeasing them. 大爷伯encourages all devotees to help these wandering spirits, not only to lessen their misery and placate their spirits but to gain spiritual merits for oneself and their family members (from: http://pasiris.multiply.com/journal/item/60).

However, according to Chinese tradition, wandering spirits, commonly known as ‘hungry ghosts’ are only allowed to eat during the Lunar 7th month, referred to by some as ‘Ghost Month’. At other times, their throat constricts, and the food burns in their mouth and throat before it can be swallowed. How was it therefore that they could participate in this feast? Alvin explained this in detail:

The seventh month is the official holiday for the wandering spirits when they are allowed to eat, and they can also be invited to eat on the anniversary of their deaths. In the case of the rituals that were performed during the yew keng, they invited the Jade Emperor to witness the rituals that they performed. During the inviting of the Jade Emperor, the Taoist priest laid out exactly what the temple would be doing during the entire event, including feeding the wandering spirits. The Jade Emperor had therefore given his permission and blessing before the event could be held. “We are not helping them to jailbreak, okay? We are bringing them out to give them food as a charity to them, and after that we will have to ensure that we send them back.” In the process, the temple accumulates merits, and also helps the wandering spirits to accumulate merits as the Taoist priest chants from scriptures including those which relate to repentance on their behalf. It should be noted that the wandering spirits invited were from the same locality as the tua, and it was not a universal call to all wandering spirits.

There is also a paper deity in the corner sitting on a unicorn with an umbrella, and this deity changes every year. From the very start of the event, this deity witnesses what the temple has done up until the next event when he is burnt in order to report to the Jade Emperor on what the temple has done in the entire period. This includes reporting on the events that go on during the annual celebration including inviting the wandering spirits, giving them food, and sending them back.

Moving further into the tentage there was an offering that was explained to me as food for the crippled or the handicapped who couldn't sit at the tables to eat. As can be seen in the photo, it was also laid out on the floor where it would be accessible, and there was plenty of it. Lastly, there were offerings of food and toys for the souls of lost children from miscarriages and abortions ... a moving tribute which had been laid out with care and attention to detail.

The organizers explanation of these offerings is that: "A foetus or a baby has a life of its own. Hence, when one of such is lost through a miscarriage or an abortion, it is considered an unjustified death (冤死), just like any other accidental deaths. If a rite (普渡) is not done, the soul (of the baby or foetus) will roam the Mortal World (人间) without clothes, food and shelter till its natural life span ends. But if a rite is performed, its suffering will lessen and the little soul will be brought to the Netherworld (地狱) to await faster reincarnation (投胎)" (from: http://pasiris.multiply.com/journal/item/60).

I questioned Alvin further on this practice as I thought that an aborted foetus was not considered a complete human in the Chinese belief system as it does not contain it’s three hun (souls) and seven p’o (spirits). Alvin has a wealth of knowledge and experience on all matters of a religious nature that relate to the spiritual realms, and informed me that according to the teachings of this Tua Ya Pek, the very moment a woman conceives, one of the hun already enters, as if it didn't, how could the baby grow? Something cannot grow without a life. Only something with a life can grow. The second hun enters when the baby is one month old. Chinese celebrate this in a very elaborate way. The third hun enters when the baby is three years old. This explains why a lot of old people say that children should not go out after dark and so on until they are three years old (four years old in the Chinese lunar system) as before their final hun enters, they are vulnerable. In this system, on the day the baby is conceived it is already one day old. Therefore when the baby is born it is already almost one year old. The full seven p'o will only be complete when the child is 16 years old in the Chinese system.

I expressed the idea that I had read that the three hun represent the soul which keeps the individual alive, and the seven p’o are the personality and emotions of the individual. Alvin concurred and expressed the idea that a baby can cry the day it is born and therefore exhibit emotions from the day of birth. As my own understanding of an emotion is of a thought with a physiological reaction, I had to agree with this assumption. Alvin suggested that even though it cannot be proven, the p'o enter at birth, they keep developing until the age of 16. Even though it seems clear from a Buddhist perspective that our personality, emotions and morality continue developing and maturing throughout our lives and are in fact, in common with all else in the Universe, in a continual state of change, hun and p’o, depending on definition, may be acknowledged as an exception to this rule during different phases of their existence. The three hun, as mentioned, are considered to be the soul, and it is believed that upon death, one goes to the Underworld, one remains in the tomb, and one remains in the ancestral tablet. The one that is reincarnated is the same as that which goes through the Underworld, and when it comes back it returns with two more hun so it forms a complete human again. Alvin claims that nobody knows where the extra two hun materialize from, and I suggested they came from the universal Tao. But I have diversified …

A paper palace had also been built to house the souls of the spirit children during the event (see photo 4), and I was impressed by this attention to detail. In this case, the construction of the palace was instructed by Tua Ya Pek. During the 13 years since the temple was established, Tua Ya Pek’s main motive besides helping living devotees has been to do his part for the wandering spirits that have nobody to take care of them, the so called ‘beggars of the spiritual world’. Therefore, Tua Ya Pek has always instructed that if there is a lack of funds, he would rather give up his own annual celebration and spend the money on the offerings to lost spiritual beings. Therefore, as a tua, they try to give more offerings to the wandering spirits in terms of food, paper houses, clothes and silver paper than they do for even their own deities. This is an example of spiritual compassion in action.

Back to the pu du event … At the appointed time after the chanting had finished, many devotees followed the Taoist Priest across the Nai He Bridge while Tua Ya Pek looked on.

This is a totally different bridge from the Ping An Bridge that I have seen in many temple celebrations. Whilst the Ping An Bridge represents salvation, the Nai He Bridge symbolises the crossing from the mortal world to the Underworld. In the Chinese belief system there may be corruption in the Underworld, so if your ancestors have not gained sufficient merits during their lifetimes or do not have enough money to bribe the bridge guards, their journey may be delayed, or they might even be banned from crossing the bridge and therefore be stranded on Earth as wandering spirits, and hence the need for the Nai He Bridge ritual.

In this ritual, it is mostly the descendants of the deceased that carry the ancestral tablets across the bridge. This symbolises that they have the filial piety to bring them over the bridge, and to pay for the passage. Either the Taoist priest or Tua Ya Pek will lead the procession to make sure that all of the deceased ancestors successfully cross the bridge and enter into the world beyond. On this occasion Tua Ya Pek supervised, and the charismatic Taoist priest lead the devotees across the bridge. In fact, in the day’s events, the Taoist priest was the active agency in the spiritual events as he had been chanting for the whole day. He had chanted to the Underworld deities to ask for permissions and made offerings and informed them that all of these ancestors had already repented for their sins on Earth. The priest utilized the scriptures including those of repentance as a catalyst to cleanse the ancestors of their wrong doings and thus to reduce their sins so that the Underworld Officers would show compassion and let them cross.

The event was spiritually overseen by a male incarnation of Guan Yin (Da Shi Ye) who can control the ghosts and spirits when it is finally time for them to leave. It was explained to me that in this transformation the Goddess of Mercy becomes the King of Ghosts - a transformation that I have not come across previously in my research in Taiwan, but one which is known among religious practitioners in Singapore. After the pu du ritual was over, it was time to transport all the offerings to a suitable location to be ‘sent off’ (incineration allows the spiritual essence of the offerings to be transferred to the spirit world). Once again, the Taoist priest took charge of the proceedings, and there was something magical in the moment that Da Shi Ye left (see photo 'Sending off Da Shi Ye'). A superb ending to a great week of worship, offerings, fine food, conversation, helping, learning and celebration.

Tuesday 12 April 2011

Oil Wok Ritual: The Temple of Mysterious Virtue - Dec 2010




The Temple of Mysterious Virtue is a temple dedicated to helping members of the public, and is well known among the religious community for attempting efficacious cures for those with serious or apparently terminal illness. This particular event marked the 25th anniversary of the temple, and, living up to their reputation as healers, involved the cooking of medicinal oil that was given freely the next day to those with aches and pains.

There are many unique aspects of this temple. For example, the temple architecture is far from typical. As shown in the first photograph, it is located in an industrial estate warehouse far from any residential neighbourhoods, and the sanctity of the sacred space is maintained by numerous symbolic means including an external altar to the Underworld Camps representing the Underworld Deities of the Five Directions. These spirit armies are commanded by five Underworld generals who are represented by their flags outside the temple, and again inside the temple at the altar as anthropomorphic representations among the numerous Underworld deities. The main altar is also organized in a unique manner, with the top level housing the deities that have existed since pre-history, the middle section housing deified humans and animals deified in human times, and the bottom layer housing the Underworld pantheon. This is unusual for Singapore as it is more common to house the Heaven deities at the front of the temple, and the Underworld deities at a separate altar at the rear of the temple. The Temple of Mysterious Virtue respects all religions, and it contains both a Malay Datuk Gong (拿督公) and a Hindu Ganesha, and both Chinese and Indian spirit-mediums trance deities at this temple. The deities most frequently tranced are the from the Chinese pantheon including the Underworld enforcer Tua Ya Pek (大爷伯), the 12th century Buddhist monk Ji Gong (濟公), and the Bodhisattva Guan Yin (觀音), and from the Hindu side, the Underworld deity Madurai Veeran. Tua Ya Pek has been described to me by his mediums as half deity, half ghost.

Madurai Veeran meaning ‘Warrior of Madurai’ is a Tamil folk deity believed to have been a great warrior who lived around the 14th century. According to legend, he was the son of a king, and his bravery and talent earned him a chance to enter the army as a Commander. He enforced strict discipline, especially to criminals, and passed harsh laws to help eradicate robbers from the country. However, his enemies plotted against him, and persuaded his father the king that he was also one of the robbers, and must be punished. The king, who was already jealous of Madurai Veeran, sentenced him to mutilation by having a hand and a leg removed. Madurai Veeran died as a result of this punishment. Later the King realized that Madurai Veeran was innocent and regretted his act. Here lies a similarity between Tua Ya Pek and Madurai Veeran, namely, that in the Chinese Underworld, one of the punishments is the cutting off of limbs, an act which is overseen by the enforcer Tua Ya Pek. A more direct link between them is that Madurai Veeran in the counterpart of Tua Ya Pek in the Tamil version of the Underworld. It should be noted that in Singapore, Tua Ya Pek is a rank, not an individual, and there are many Tua Ya Pek in the Underworld. This particular Tua Ya Pek claims to be 700 years old, and bears the family name Su (蘇). In contrast, in Taiwan, Tua Ya Pek is commonly known as General Xie (谢将军), and while in Singapore Tua Ya Pek is one of the most frequently tranced deities, in Taiwan, his counterpart General Xie is rarely worshipped or spoken about as the subject is largely taboo.

Anyway, this event was both memorable and quite surreal. I arrived early while the preparations were still being made for the ‘oil wok’ ritual. The medicines had been laid in boxes on the ground, and the wok was about to be placed in position in the area immediately outside the temple. There were five spirit mediums already in trance, and the leader of the ritual was the resident Ji Gong. I was armed with two cameras, and determined to try putting my hands in the boiling oil if allowed. The oil used was a mixture of sesame oil and vegetable oil, and some rice wine was added.

First however, a ritual space had to be created in what was essentially an industrial estate car park. This was accomplished by several rituals which marked the area as sacred. Around the edges of the ritual space were wooden blocks, each holding two candles and some incense sticks, and these marked a ritual boundary. There were eight of the blocks marking each of the primary compass points (also corresponding to the eight sides of the bagua), and a temple member cracked a snake whip several times to reinforce each of these boundary markers. This is an example of what is known as ‘thunder magic’. It is a common belief that it is the whip itself that scares away evil spirits, but in Taoism, it is the sound of the whip cracking, a noise symbolic of thunder that has the power to dispel malevolent forces. This tradition evolved from ancient China when it was believed that the deities used thunder as a weapon in battle. In Chinese mythology, Lei Gong (雷公) is the deity who, when so ordered by Heaven, punishes both earthly mortals guilty of secret crimes and evil spirits who have used their knowledge of Taoism to harm human beings by producing thunder with a drum and mallet.

An inner ritual space was then created by the spirit mediums dancing around the wok of hot oil, and using towels, splashing the oil over themselves, onlookers, floor, and over both of my cameras. The smallest sacred space was that created within the wok, and this was accomplished by laying joss money in the base of the wok before the oil was added. The herbs used to make the medicine included everyday cooking ingredients including ginger, lemon grass, holy basil and fungi along with six less common (read: secret) herbs and roots. After the spirit mediums had finished, the public were allowed to put their hands in the hot oil: it was hot, but not boiling at this point. The herbs were then added, and each of the spirit mediums climbed into the wok and sat on top of the medicine. It was then covered, and the event continued inside the temple where Tua Ya Pek was about to enter the body of the resident spirit medium.

The spirit medium was sat in a wooden chair, one arm of which was carved into the effigy of ‘Ox Head’ (Niu Tou 牛頭) and the other of ‘Horse Face' (Ma Mian馬面), the two Underworld deities who come to collect the soul after death, and escort it down to the Underworld. Of note is that spirit mediums trancing Heaven deities use a throne with dragons carved into the arms, the dragons representing authority and auspicious power, while Underworld deities use the chair described. It should be noted that in Chinese culture, the Underworld, even though it is where the spirit goes to be punished (the fact that the spirit is punished with physical weapons is a fascinating paradox, the logic of which I am now researching) for sins committed while in a human (or animal) body, is not the same as the Christian ‘Hell’. In the Chinese belief system, Heaven represents ‘yin’ energy, and the Underworld ‘yang’ energy, and together they represent a balance which is represented by the yin / yang symbol. The belief is that after being punished for sins, the individual drinks from the ‘Cup of Forgetfulness’, and then awaits a new incarnation, the nature of which is determined by one’s actions in the previous life (i.e. the punishment does not wipe out the previous life karma).

Anyway, the temple members then began an invocation to invite / summon Tua Ya Pek into the body of the spirit medium. This was accompanied by loud drums and gongs. As the crescendo increased, the medium rocked violently back and forth in the chair, each time bringing his head closer to the ground. The force of his momentum was so great that three helpers had to hold the chair steady so that the medium’s body wouldn’t overturn the chair. In theory, as Tua Ya Pek is an Underworld deity, at the moment when a full physiological trance is attained, as the head goes down, the Underworld deity enters the medium through the floor into his head, and the medium’s soul is displaced to various receptacles in the temple. As this medium entered a full state of trance, he slapped the floor with both hands, and then stood up in a rigid martial posture supported by his helpers who then dressed him in the robes that Tua Ya Pek is accustomed to wearing. Tua Ya Pek then led members of the temple and public in paying respects to the Jade Emperor, to Heaven deities and to the Underworld pantheon, and then strode outside to inspect the medicine.

When the lid was taken off the wok, there was a pungent but aromatic smell, and the oil was bubbling fiercely. After stirring the oil and medicines, he laid his hands on the oil, and proceeded to rub it on his arms. This was something new to try, and a queue formed. The medium held each person’s wrists, and touched the palms of their hands onto the surface of the boiling oil – this time it was seriously hot and left the palms of the hands stinging as one rubbed the medicinal oil over the hands and arms.

After this, Tua Ya Pek returned to his chair inside the temple. In front of the chair were three piles; one of yellow lengths of cloth, one of people’s personal artefacts, and one of glass ‘fortune money’ made in the shape of traditional silver boat shaped blocks to commemorate the anniversary. Here he proceeded to use a piece of a broken cup (which I think had been especially smashed for the purpose after having been used to offer drink to a deity) to slice his tongue until it bled. The cloths, artefacts and money were then passed to him, and, using his tongue, smeared his blood on each. When the flow of blood stopped, he picked up a shard of broken china, and made fresh lacerations until all of the objects had been marked. It is believed that the blood of the possessed medium carries the power of the deity that he is possessed by, hence this activity. It may well be asked why someone would want an object carrying the power of an Underworld enforcer, and for me, this is when the most interesting part of the night began.

Tua Ya Pek then returned to his accustomed position in front of a desk containing talisman and other ritual objects as well as large amounts of alcohol and cigarettes. His chair was carried there for him, as this is the place where consultations usually take place. He motioned for me to follow him, and referred to me as ‘the blue eyed boy’. He then commented that I had taken many photographs, but that I hadn’t paid respects to the deities in the temple first. This was true, and I assured him that I would pay respects to them immediately. However, he continued the conversation, and asked me if there was anything I would like to ask him, so I put my mind in top gear, and began to question him about the Underworld, soul and sin. Did Western people go to the Chinese Underworld, or was it ethnically exclusive? If French and German and Swedish people all went to the Underworld, were there French, German and Swedish speaking Tua Ya Pek? Taking into account that different countries follow different laws, are there universal ‘sins’ that everyone will be punished for? How about when the laws of two religions contradict each other, which one will you be punished for? If you are ‘bad’, will you be reincarnated as an animal? How bad would I have to be to reincarnate as a dog? How many souls do we have? Is the soul divisible? Are deities from all religions equally real and on and on. We chatted for about one and a half hours, during which time he had drunk at least eight small cans of Guinness, most followed with a large Martel Cognac chaser (Underworld deities traditionally smoked opium and drank alcohol when tranced through a human body, but opium has been replaced by tobacco in contemporary Singapore), and I was becoming self-conscious as there were other people waiting to consult him, but he pressed me for more questions.

“Ok” I said, “Can you tell me why a Chinese Underworld enforcer drinks Irish stout?”

Wow, that one made him laugh! He told his helpers to open the cupboards. There was Cognac, Scotch (good single malts), Saki, rice wine, red wine, sparkling wine and a dozen different beers. “You think I only drink Guinness? Ha ha ha. I only drink Guinness because I like it” he replied as one of his helpers lit another cigarette for him. “You think I am getting drunk?” he asked me. His eyes were red, his speech was slightly slurred, and, with a drunken smile, he was swaying back and forth in his chair, so I gave it my best diplomatic guess, “well, erm, maybe just a tiny little bit tipsy”. “Wait until I return” he said (meaning, wait until Tua Ya Pek returns to the Underworld) and then get the spirit medium to breathe on you. Smell his breath. It won’t smell of alcohol or cigarettes. I am taking all of that with me back to the Underworld”. I agreed to try. He then tried to cajole me into making a bet with him, suggesting that all my photos would be out of focus as I hadn’t lit incense and paid respects before taking them. It isn’t a good policy to be betting with any deity, especially so an Underworld deity, so I politely refused. Then he challenged me to take out my camera there and then and look at the photos as proof that he was right. I have a Nikon D90 with a 50mm F 1:4 Nikon lens, an excellent camera / lens combination and one of my most prized possessions, so I was sorely tempted to take him up on the challenge, but noticed several people shake their heads, and once again, politely declined.

He then picked up a can of Guinness and asked me how much I thought he could auction it for (temples auction alcohol and other material objects for very high prices to devotees at big events to raise money for the temple or for charity), so I guessed 1,888 dollars, eight being a lucky number associated with prosperity in Chinese culture, and 1,888 often the price at which items are sold for in temple auctions (I have seen a 70cl bottle of Martell Cordon Bleu auction for $3,888 Singapore / £1,950). Tua Ya Pek laughed and said he would rather give them away, and did so to several people. Well, discussing the nature of the soul with Underworld deities is thirsty work, so with a nod of my head, a wink and a smile, I communicated that I would very much enjoy imbibing a Guinness too, and thus it was that I drank a couple of cans of Guinness with a Chinese Underworld deity in a warehouse temple on the eighth floor of an industrial block in Singapore. With the second can, raising it to his good health, I paid respect to him, after which he said, “Ok, now that you have paid your respects, your photos will all be in focus”. A fitting end to our conversation.

I did wait around until the medium came out of trance. It is an unfortunate medical fact that if someone is in a genuine physiological trance, the individual usually suffers from genuine amnesia, a fact which makes my life as a researcher particularly complicated as no spirit mediums remember talking to me after they come out of trance. Anyway, within 2 minutes of coming out of trance I approached the spirit medium and asked if I could smell his breath. “Why, who are you?” he asked, in a genuinely sceptical manner. I noted that his eyes were clear, his speech perfect, and his body language said ‘boxer in good training’ not ‘10 cans of Guinness and 6 Cognac chasers’, so I explained. He let me smell his breath, and to my surprise, and I was genuinely taken aback, there was no trace of either alcohol or tobacco on his breath.

Anyway, during my interview with Tua Ya Pek, he gave me a talisman, promised to visit me in a dream, and forced the Indian spirit medium into a spontaneous trance by summoning Madurai Veeran to deal with a devotee’s problem while he chatted to me, but these are other stories, each deserving of a full report, so will be told at a more appropriate time.

Thursday 10 February 2011

Dragon Mountain Temple yew keng - 12/12/2010


Using his 'snake whip' - he clears a path for the mediums away from the temple to their transport

Yew Keng

Taiwan and Singapore not only have different traditions, but different words to describe similar phenomena. The following photos are of a yew keng (游境) in Singapore, which is Singaporean Hokkien and an abbreviated form of yew keng siu sark (游境收煞) meaning ‘walk territory, receive / keep, stop’, in other words, in a military manner, an inspection / policing of the territory to eliminate unwanted elements. Put into a spiritual context, the spiritual inspection of territory removing evil and malign elements, or going on a procession to take in all the bad entities, which has been explained to me is in Chinese terms as, “the good will go and "suck" in the evil, like into a hulu (葫蘆)”, a hulu / horlor being a bottle gourd which is traditionally associated with kung fu magic used to “to suck in the bad entities”. In Taiwan, the same religious parade would be called a yia lao leh (迎鬧熱) meaning ‘welcome, make noise, make hot’ in Taiwanese Hokkien, and in Mandarin, a rao jing (遶境) meaning ‘patrol border’. In Singapore, a yew keng is usually performed by a tua (壇), which in Singaporean Hokkien means ‘altar’ but may better be translated as ‘congregation belonging to a particular temple’, while in Taiwan, a tua refers to an actual altar or table for offerings.

In present day Singapore, the yew keng has become celebratory, and often marks the anniversary of a temple or deities birthday. Thus it is also an opportunity for devotees to express their devotion as well as for the temple or tua involved to self-publicize. In Singapore, it may even be interpreted by some as a method of expressing ‘Chineseness’ in what is essentially a multi-ethnic society with religious diversity and toleration.

There are three noticeable differences between yew keng in Singapore and Taiwan, most notably, the absence of self-flagellation amongst tang-ki in Singapore, and similar absence of body piercing (‘satay’) in Taiwan, though neither is exclusive to either location. Secondly, firecrackers were outlawed in Singapore in March 1972 after two unarmed policemen were attacked on New Year's Eve as they attempted to prevent celebrants at Upper Serangoon Road from letting off firecrackers without a permit. The permit system, a precursor to the Dangerous Fireworks Act, had been set up after Chinese New Year celebrations in 1970 caused 6 deaths, 68 injured victims and at least S$400,000 damages, whilst in Taiwan, strings of highly explosive fire crackers are an obligatory accompaniment to street processions and contribute to the celebrations and sacred nature of the occasion. It may be speculated that the absence of fireworks to intimidate ‘wandering ghosts’ and malevolent spirits has led to the increased use of the ‘snake whip’ in Singapore, whereby an envoy, often skewered with either the 5 generals or 36 generals precedes the mediums, thus clearing the path with an exorcising ‘snake whip’. Lastly, in Singapore, there is an absence of both troupes of ‘Imperial Generals’ Guan jiang shou (官將首) and deities personified by giant puppets da xian wang zi (大仙尪仔), both Taiwanese religious icons which are in the process of cultural dissemination, and subsequent popularization in Singapore and other Chinese diasporas in Southeast Asia.

The intricately made-up Imperial Generals and majestically swaying giant deities both provide a visual feast for spectators, which, it may be speculated, is provided in Singapore by the costumes, make-up and physical personification of deities by spirit mediums, all of which are less exaggerated in Taiwan. However, similarities between yew keng in Taiwan and Singapore, as would be expected, far outweigh the differences.

The origins of Chinese spirit mediumship date back to at least the Zhou dynasty (1046–256 BC) and have gradually evolved through the course of time. According to the research of Margaret Chan, Chinese spirit mediumship and ritual processions from which modern yew keng have evolved may have originated with Nuo exorcism in the Zhou dynasty. “Nuo rituals were processional and always led by a warrior exorcist known as the fang-xiang- shi (方向士) who has been variously described as ‘warrior of the four directions’ or ‘the manic general who clears the way’… (who was) … armed with a lance and shield, and dancing wildly” (Chan 2009: 3). Chan points out the commonalities between this image and the image of the modern tang-ki.

Furthermore, descriptions of spirit mediums by de Groot, a Sinologist and Historian, who researched extensively in Fujian in the 1880’s, match closely with the ritual practices performed during contemporary yew keng showing that modernization including the use of trucks to transport the mediums has not changed the fundamental religious traditions and practices.

“A few (of the entourage) carry long whips of braided cords with short handles … wherewith they flog the spectres away. Five boys bear banners of the five principal colours, representing the divisions of the celestial army … therewith to lead on the mighty host of invisible gods against the common foe. They are escorted by gongmen and drummers, inciting the divine warriors by their noise. Close by, some men having their faces painted black, red, green or otherwise, with whips swords or bells … represent the generals of the Celestial Army, or are incarnations of these divinities for the time being, as the mediums are of the temple gods.”

There are diverse reasons for holding a yew keng, with each individual event being unique. Some reasons may include the celebration of deity’s birthday, the anniversary of a temple or tua, the public initiation of a new medium into the religious landscape or perhaps the renewal of the mandate of the Jade Emperor for the temple or spirit medium engaged in the yew keng.

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Dragon Mountain Temple yew keng - 12/12/2010

This album is about a yew keng I went to see on Sunday December 12th, Dragon Mountain Temple visiting two temples, Yu Huang Tian combined temple and Dou Tian Gong, both close to Jurong West Avenue. I left where I am staying at 10:45 to give myself plenty of time to get there, but didn't arrive at the closest MRT, Boon Lay until 12:15, and searched for a taxi as I didn't want to miss the yew keng which I expected to start around 12:30. Alas ... only found a queue for a taxi with about 15 people in front of me, so, guided by the sun, worked out which way was north, and walked as fast as I could to what I thought was the Jade Emperor temple. No sign of a yew keng, so I asked a friendly looking chap if it had arrived yet, and he told me that it would not arrive until at least 1PM, and would visit the temple behind first, so not to worry, and come have some lunch.

Hot, dehydrated, and unfed, I was once again struck by the amazing hospitality of Singaporean people, especially those associated with religion. Around the back of the temple was a kitchen area, with 5-6 elderly folk watching police controlling a riot on the news on a large flat screen TV. I thought to myself ... 'that looks a bit like England' (I am behind the times on the international news) and then the picture showed Prince Charles and his car being attacked by rioters in London. One of the pleasantest of the old folk brought me a cup of iced green bean soup and asked me where I was from. "Europe" I replied, then rather red faced ... "erm ... London"!

Anyway, it was a great breakfast of rice, salt fish, vegetables and ginger soup, and I called my friend Victor (Singapore’s expert on Taoism and templing) to see where he was as I expected to see him there with the anthropologist Jean DeBernardi (I highly recommend her book ‘The Way That Lives in the Heart: Chinese Popular Religion and Spirit Mediums in Penang, Malaysia’- it is beautifully written, informative and a pleasure to read). I wanted to tell him the yew keng hadn't arrived yet in case he was rushing to get there. "Victor, where are you?" I asked "at the Jade Emperor Temple" he replied, "so am I" I said, "see you soon". After thanking the folk heartily for the breakfast, I went to look at the temple behind where I had breakfasted so well, and there I found Victor and Jean. In my haste, I had gone to Dou Tian Gong next door to the Jade Emperor temple by mistake, one of those wonderful mistakes which provides breakfast and re-affirms faith in human nature. Anyway ... I have diversified.....


The yew keng soon arrived with 17 mediums from several different temples. None of the mediums were skewered, but the helpers with the snake whips had skewered their arms, and this of course attracted much attention as they prepared the way for the mediums in great style. Of note is that piercing the skin with skewers capped with the heads of deities is known locally as ‘satay’ which is both a verb and a noun: “Are you going to satay today”? “Yes, probably about 36 satay today thanks”! Anyway …

Over a period of quarter of an hour, the procession of mediums entered the temple, each with a flamboyant display before entering. It was a pleasure to watch! I asked Victor for help identifying the deities tranced by these mediums, and I believe they include Lian Hua San Tai Zi 莲花三太子 ( a child deity popularized in the Ming dynasty novel ‘Investiture of the Gods’), Shi San Tai Bao 十三太保, Zhang Gong Shen Jun, Sun Wu Kong 孫悟空 (Monkey from ‘Journey to the West’), Shan Cai Tong Zi 善才童子 (a helper to Guan Yin), Ji Gong 濟公 (the drunken monk), Xuan Tian Shang Di 玄天上帝 (a soul of the Jade emperor – True Warrior of the North and Lord of the Dark Heavens) and several local deities.

Once inside the temple, each medium paid respects to the temple deities. The central deity of course was the Jade emperor, and his icon is one of the finest I have seen. Then, the tang-ki went to the rear of the temple to pay respects to the 60 Tai Sui. It was while observing this part of the yew keng that I noticed the amazing tattoos on some of the mediums. As far as I am aware, the purpose of the yew keng was for the renewal of the mandate of the Jade Emperor for Dragon Mountain Temple.

Anyway … I then returned to Dou Tian Gong to watch the procession as it arrived. For me, one of the most memorable images was of a very old man on his knees passing incense to the mediums as they arrived at the altar outside the temple. This made me contemplate Confucian ethics which dictate 5 cardinal relationships (五倫), cardinal relationships which don't explicitly say, but implicate, that the young should pay respect to the old: ruler and subject (君臣), father and son (父子), husband and wife (夫婦), elder and younger brother (兄弟) and friend and friend (朋友), yet here was an extremely old man, and no doubt a man of high standing in his religious community on his knees supplicating and genuflecting to these young mediums. I realize that he was not paying homage to the mediums, but to the deities that they were trancing, but this only served to amplify the image in my mind of the devotion and the intensity of his cultural and religious beliefs. I was quite moved, and stayed rooted to the spot watching in quiet awe as this old man performed his religious duty. Rarely, have I seen this kind of piety. Unfortunately the photos don't quite portray his humility in the presence of the mediums.

I would love to have the opportunity to speak to the old man, and hear the story of his life, of his original kampong and move to a new district of Singapore, the construction of the new temple, and the changes that he must have seen in the religious landscape .... that would be a rare privilege. Perhaps I will return to the temple and meet him before I return to Taiwan. But I am getting sidetracked …

So, the yew keng soon moved on to its next venue. I believe it visited 11 temples. I didn't go any further as Victor was kind enough to let me tag along with him and Jean (via a rather good Indian restaurant) to see an old temple soon to be relocated, and the new temple structure into which it would move with two other temples. One final thought. As the yew keng moved off, it did so in small trucks. In Taipei, most processions go on foot, but watching the tang-ki in what is essentially an age-old tradition, finely dressed in costumes depicting deities of old sitting in modern vehicles, it brought home the effect of modernity on religious tradition. The contrast, in my mind at least, between the tradition and ancient nature of the deities and their modern mode of transportation was quite dramatic.

Thursday 3 February 2011

Shaolin Kung Fu at Thian Hock Keng Mazu temple, 2/2/2011




Shaolin monks performing kung fu and weapons forms at a Chinese New Years celebration in Singapore at Thian Hock Keng Mazu temple (Tian Hou Gong) just after midnight.

We (Victor, Raymond, myself and other templing enthusiasts in Singapore) visited 6 temples to do 'bai bai' or 'worship' the deities there to welcome in the Chinese New Year - The Year of the Rabbit ... and from a cultural or spiritual perspective, I think there is no better way to welcome it.

The Shaolin performance at Thian Hock Keng was unexpected, their Dragon Dance is the best I have ever seen, and their martial arts awesome to say the least. For the welcoming in of the Year of the Rabbit, it was the icing on the cake.

It plays more smoothly on youtube if you have a slower connection at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiWgyDYYhtc