Yan Shui Feng Pao 鹽水蜂炮 (firework festival) takes place on the 15th day of the Chinese 1st month and coincides with Lantern Festival. The tradition began in the 1870’s when there was a cholera outbreak in the town. Many people had died and the townsfolk had prayed to the temple deities for a cure. One night in a dream, the deity Guan Gong visited a man and told him to parade his deity statue around the town and throw firecrackers at it, and in return, he would cure the town of the disease. This may relate to an ancient folk belief that plagues were caused by malevolent spirits, and that these spirits were killed by thunder magic and firecrackers mimic the sound of thunder.
The statue was paraded around the town, and soon after, the disease was no longer found in the area. To prevent its return, every year the tradition was repeated. However, it was a local event, and as most people were too poor to put on a display of fireworks, they simply hung a string of firecrackers from a stick outside their windows and they were set off on the night of the 15th.
After China ceded Taiwan to Japan and the Japanese took control (1895 – 1945), Yan Shui became an important port, mostly for the export of sugar, and the town became a thriving business community. Many of the Japanese era buildings still stand. According to 謝曾品 (Xie Zeng Pin), an 89 year old resident who was the first person to make protective canvas clothes especially for the feng pao, as cholera was still a problem in Taiwan, the Japanese allowed the festival to continue, though kept a military presence there in case of rebellion. When the Nationalists took control of Taiwan in 1945, Taiwanese traditions were generally looked down upon, discouraged and sometimes banned. However, government policy changed, and by the 1960’s, the festival was actively promoted as a tourist attraction. Since then it has grown enormously, and each year there are approximately 4 million rockets set off into the crowds from over 200 purpose built stands as well as major firework displays put on by businesses, temples and individuals that last till the morning of the 16th.
The festival now lasts 2 days. On the first evening, the deities from the main temple 鹽水武廟 Yan Shui Wu Miao and numerous other local temples are paraded through the streets. Local families erect altars outside their homes and burn joss money as deities pass. Some families or even whole streets provide a stand of rockets which are fired directly at the deities, the carriers and anyone else who chooses to participate. The more you are hit, the better luck it is thought you will have. Most people wear a thick jacket and motorcycle helmet with some kind of neck protection. These parades finish back at Yan Shui Wu Miao between 1-3am.
On the second evening there are 5 parade routes, and the streets are thronging with people wearing motorcycle helmets following the different parades. The event continues all night. Every year there are numerous casualties with burns, but this is to be expected.
Standing at the front when a barrage is ignited is an awesome experience. The first few seconds are slow as the multiple fuses light, and within a few seconds, tens of rockets are bouncing off you. About 20 seconds in it is a beautiful pandemonium, with hundreds of rockets taking off every few seconds, the light and sparks create an illusion of a fairy land which engulfs the senses. It is a very spiritual feeling, even though the sense stimulation may be similar to a warzone.
I shot 3 videos of the event which can be watched on my YouTube Channel http://www.youtube.com/user/fabian215963?feature=mhee at:
Yan Shui Feng Pao Day 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0gMvuXEQ2A&hd=1
Yan Shui Feng Pao Day 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWtSxg2QA2s&hd=1
Yan Shui Feng Pao Barrage 鹽水蜂炮: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21_-FttENOA
