The Taiwan Photographer

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2012 Yan Shui Feng Pao - 鹽水蜂炮, 第1天

Yan Shui Feng Pao 鹽水蜂炮 (firework festival) takes place on the 15th day of the Chinese 1st month and coincides with Lantern Festival. The tradition began in the 1870’s when there was a cholera outbreak in the town. Many people had died and many had prayed to the temple deities for a cure. One night in a dream, the deity Guan Gong visited a man in a dream and told him to parade his statue around the town and throw firecrackers at the statue and he would cure the town of the disease. This may relate to an ancient folk belief that plagues were caused by malevolent spirits, and that these spirits were killed by thunder magic and firecrackers mimic the sound of thunder.

The statue was paraded around the town, and soon after the disease was no longer found in the area. To prevent its return, every year the tradition was repeated. However, it was a local event, and as most people were too poor to put on a display of crackers, instead they hung a string of firecrackers from a stick outside their windows and they were set off on the night of the 15th.

After China ceded Taiwan to Japan and the Japanese took control of Taiwan (1895 – 1945), Yan Shui became an important port, mostly for the export of sugar, and the town became a thriving business community. Many of the Japanese era buildings still stand. According to 謝曾品 (Xie Zeng Pin), an 89 year old resident who was the first person to make protective canvas clothes especially for the feng pao, as cholera was still a problem in Taiwan, they allowed the festival to continue, though kept a military presence there in case of rebellion. When the Nationalists took control of Taiwan in 1945, Taiwanese traditions were generally looked down upon, discouraged and sometimes banned. However, government policy changed, and by the 1960’s, the festival was actively promoted as a tourist attraction. Since then it has grown enormously, and each year there are approximately 4 million rockets set off into the crowds from over 200 purpose built stands as well as major firework displays put on by businesses, temples and individuals that last till the morning of the 16th.

The festival now lasts 2 days. On the first evening, the deities from the main temple鹽水武廟Yan Shui Wu Miao and numerous other local temples are paraded through the streets. Local families erect altars outside their homes and burn joss money as deities pass. Some families or even whole streets provide a stand of rockets which are fired directly at the deities, the carriers and anyone else who chooses to participate. The more you are hit, the better luck it is thought you will have. Most people wear a thick jacket and motorcycle helmet with some kind of neck protection. These parades finish back at Yan Shui Wu Miao between 1-3am.

On the second evening there are 5 parade routes, and the streets are thronging with people wearing motorcycle helmets following the different parades. The event continues all night. Every year there are numerous casualties with burns, but this is to be expected.

Standing at the front when a barrage is ignited is an awesome experience. The first few seconds are slow as the multiple fuses light, and within a few seconds, tens of rockets are bouncing off you. About 20 seconds in it is a beautiful pandemonium, with hundreds of rockets taking off every few seconds, the light and sparks create an illusion of a fairy land which engulfs the senses. It is a very spiritual feeling, even though the sense stimulation may be similar to a warzone.

I shot 3 videos of the event, the other 2 can be watched on my YouTube Channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/fabian215963?feature=mhee at:

and

Yan Shui Feng Pao Day 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWtSxg2QA2s&hd=1

Yan Shui Feng Pao Barrage 鹽水蜂炮: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21_-FttENOA

'Money God Cults in Taiwan: A Paranthropological Approach' in Paranthropology Vol. 3 No. 1 pp9-19

http://discarnates.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/paranthropology-vol-3-no-1-now.html
Partly inspired by the brilliant paper "A free gift makes no friends" by Dr. James Laidlaw which discusses the 'pure' or 'free' gift, and with thanks to Dr. Fiona Bowie who piqued my interest in the paranormal aspects of the anthropology of religion, this paper explores the relationships created in Taiwanese 'Money God' temples from the hypothetical stance of deity / devotee interactions.

Zhong Kui the Ghost Catcher - 陣頭: 鍾馗收五鬼

A 'din tao' (陣頭) troupe performs Zhong Kui (鍾馗) and the Five Ghosts outside a Tudi Gong temple in Banqiao, New Taipei City. Acording to the leader of the troupe, the purpose of this is to let the temple deities know that the spirit of Zhong Kui has visited, and to clear the area of malevolent spirits. Zhong Kui is a figure from Chinese mythology who is traditionally regarded as a vanquisher of ghosts and evil beings, and reputedly able to command 80,000 demons. The full performance of this epic tale took 25 minutes. The highlights have been edited into this short video. The ritual ends with Zhong Kui paying respects to the deities in the temple. It was performed on the birthday of the earth deity Tudi Gong.

Yan Shui Feng Pao 鹽水蜂炮

Yan Shui Feng Pao 鹽水蜂炮 (firework festival) takes place on the 15th day of the Chinese 1st month and coincides with Lantern Festival. The tradition began in the 1870’s when there was a cholera outbreak in the town. Many people had died and the townsfolk had prayed to the temple deities for a cure. One night in a dream, the deity Guan Gong visited a man and told him to parade his deity statue around the town and throw firecrackers at it, and in return, he would cure the town of the disease. This may relate to an ancient folk belief that plagues were caused by malevolent spirits, and that these spirits were killed by thunder magic and firecrackers mimic the sound of thunder.

The statue was paraded around the town, and soon after, the disease was no longer found in the area. To prevent its return, every year the tradition was repeated. However, it was a local event, and as most people were too poor to put on a display of fireworks, they simply hung a string of firecrackers from a stick outside their windows and they were set off on the night of the 15th.

After China ceded Taiwan to Japan and the Japanese took control (1895 – 1945), Yan Shui became an important port, mostly for the export of sugar, and the town became a thriving business community. Many of the Japanese era buildings still stand. According to 謝曾品 (Xie Zeng Pin), an 89 year old resident who was the first person to make protective canvas clothes especially for the feng pao, as cholera was still a problem in Taiwan, the Japanese allowed the festival to continue, though kept a military presence there in case of rebellion. When the Nationalists took control of Taiwan in 1945, Taiwanese traditions were generally looked down upon, discouraged and sometimes banned. However, government policy changed, and by the 1960’s, the festival was actively promoted as a tourist attraction. Since then it has grown enormously, and each year there are approximately 4 million rockets set off into the crowds from over 200 purpose built stands as well as major firework displays put on by businesses, temples and individuals that last till the morning of the 16th.

The festival now lasts 2 days. On the first evening, the deities from the main temple 鹽水武廟 Yan Shui Wu Miao and numerous other local temples are paraded through the streets. Local families erect altars outside their homes and burn joss money as deities pass. Some families or even whole streets provide a stand of rockets which are fired directly at the deities, the carriers and anyone else who chooses to participate. The more you are hit, the better luck it is thought you will have. Most people wear a thick jacket and motorcycle helmet with some kind of neck protection. These parades finish back at Yan Shui Wu Miao between 1-3am.

On the second evening there are 5 parade routes, and the streets are thronging with people wearing motorcycle helmets following the different parades. The event continues all night. Every year there are numerous casualties with burns, but this is to be expected.

Standing at the front when a barrage is ignited is an awesome experience. The first few seconds are slow as the multiple fuses light, and within a few seconds, tens of rockets are bouncing off you. About 20 seconds in it is a beautiful pandemonium, with hundreds of rockets taking off every few seconds, the light and sparks create an illusion of a fairy land which engulfs the senses. It is a very spiritual feeling, even though the sense stimulation may be similar to a warzone.

I shot 3 videos of the event which can be watched on my YouTube Channel http://www.youtube.com/user/fabian215963?feature=mhee at:


Yan Shui Feng Pao Day 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0gMvuXEQ2A&hd=1

Yan Shui Feng Pao Day 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWtSxg2QA2s&hd=1

Yan Shui Feng Pao Barrage 鹽水蜂炮: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21_-FttENOA

Money, Money Gods, and Lucky Money / 財神, 發財金, 台灣社寮紫南宮 / 财神, 台湾

This video was made to accompany a presentation at the European Association of Taiwan Studies International Conference in 2011. It features the 'Money God' temple Zi Nan Gong 紫南宮.

The temple is very old. Zhi Nan Gong was first built in the year 1697 the original temple housing Tu Di Gong, adding his wife, Tu Di Po in 1730.

This was the first temple in Taiwan to give fortune money. At that time, the village comprised of several local landlords who had ambitions to make money in Taipei, and a small agricultural community. Although the exact date has been forgotten, the vice manager of the temple Mr Chen 陳俊郎 recollects the first occasion on which fortune money was given in the late 1930s.

The landlords had been to Taipei, but found no success in business, and returned to the village to ask for the assistance of the temple deities. The temple committee of 12 met, and a decision was reached that lucky money could be given, so long as the temple deities agreed. The agreement was attained through the use of bua bue, and the landlords returned to Taipei where their businesses were successful. The very first person to be given money was a Mr. Zhang 張, followed by the other landlords, and the temple stipulated that the money had to be returned within one year.

Since the 1950s, the process has become ritualized. Generally in Taiwan, it is common for temple visits to rise incrementally with the size, state and condition of the roads and transport availability. When the temple first lent money to local villagers, there was only a dirt road which had been constructed by the Japanese. By the 1960s there was a tarmac road, and now access to the village is on a four lane road with parking facilities for several hundred cars and coaches.

Divination and Decision Making in Taiwan 台灣, 龍山寺, 土地公, 擲珓

Filmed at Long Shan Temple and at National Taiwan University in Taipei, this video discusses the use of divination blocks known as 'bue' to ask deities 'yes' / 'no' questions to aid decision making. Originally filmed in 2007 as a part of an MA project at NCCU, I have recently edited it, added music, commentary and subtitles and hopefully it will now be more interesting to watch.